Timeline: 05-2009: a hidden gem in plain sight

These lines sits just north and past jbmfp, slick willy and then continue until you can go left (west) into a corridor just past an arete that faces mostly south. The top of the boulder can be seen from the road or jbmfp and basically is a right rising crack composed of blocks at various points. It tops out a maybe 20 feet but starts at the far left at a crack/arete. There are two lines, one done by Jon Wright and the other, the full traverse and topout, done by Kevin Daniels.

Jon ready to exit. tallish cause the ground drops away from the start.

Both start at the same point, but Jon’s line goes up about halfway along the horizontal and exits out a hanging crack/lieback hold seen in the picture. I don’t have any images of Kevin since I wasn’t there, but Greg Epperson was and shot KD on it. The first image shows me just about to nab the jug from the awkward reach after first manteling into the dishy face. This image also shows the rest of the traverse. It’s scary cause the feet are, well, I’m sure KD found some! The image doesn’t show the full extent of the crack line because it cuts back in and isn’t fully visible from this vantage point. The second shows Jon about to exit on the FA.

I don’t have the names or grades of these problems, and I should. ugh. I”ll update as soon as I get it.

Update: I just called MB while he was at the crag in bishop with KD (aren’t cell phones awesome!) The corridor is called The Hallowed Corridor. The crack in the lower images with Mike, et al, on it is called, drum rolled please: The Hallowed Crack, v3. KD’s line is called, you might guess it, Hallowed Ground, v4. Jon’s finish is called, well he never called it anything, so I’ll call it the Hallowed Mantel, v3 or 4. I added a few more images for your enjoyment.

early attempt...

Jon traversing towards the crux.

just about to grab the jub as I precariously "drop" down and right to reach it.

To the left of the photos, not visible, is another boulder (rather a low part of the formation) that has another superb line following another left to right crack. Unlike the one in the photo, it is composed of two cracks: one that traverses into the main hand crack. Mike and I worked it, and on the second night, KD showed up. He watched patiently, and was super supportive. Our last efforts yielded bruised egos and so we handed it off to KD. We knew he would fire it straight up, but he showed reluctance cause it was “our” line. We said, dude, just fire it. You deserve it cause you can climb crack! He did. Here are some images of Mike working it by headlamp. You can clearly see to the left of Mike the entry traverse crack. It’s actually a detached part of the wall.

Mike about to start the business end of the sequence.

another view of the start. crux is the exit sequence.

watched by the crack monk...


not quite done with the crux

~ by r. mulligan on 2010/04/10.

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