back to posting, more at M2

Hi again,

ok, back to posting. I’ve been getting my files organized as things can get out of hand quickly; regardless, that makes now the best time to figure things out before I loose control. I’ve also tried to make sure my category listing is sufficient since you can then use it to find information on an area’s undocumented problems.

This past week was looking good until after warming up I ended my day with a torn left index finger pad. It’ll heal quickly. After extensive taping proved useless, I then resorted to three finger crimping, not good. I guess it’s customary to show images of the tear and blood and stuff, so here is my contribution.

the crystal sat linear to my finger length, and as I fell I pulled and closed on it slicing my skin, breaking the meager crystal and imbedding a mini crystal in my ring fingernail. a sideways flapper.

I will officially start referring to the crag that’s across the road west of the formation with the Lechlinski Cracks M and the one southwest of it M2 or M Squared. The 4 by 4 postings are all at the M crag. Jill and I were lucky to run into Robert and Christina and hang out for part of the day before they took off to hike to the summit of Malapai, west of M. After a short tour of problems done and scoped lines, we went to work on a new problem that sits on the back of a super project, well, super for myself. The fall isn’t good but it pads well. The photo shows the reach to the nothing hold composed of a few crystals and a small 2 finger tip depression. The footwork is ok, but always not where you want it. While in that very position, my left foot skated and dropped a few inches, my left hand closed and tried to hang the crystals and that broke them off. As I as fell, I thought that I needed better footwork or try something new, then just as my left hand came into peripheral view and into the sunlight, I saw a red patch. Ugh.

Unnamed and undone. the line stays left of the huge flake both since it's crumbly and just as hard me thinks to get to as getting to a good hold straight up.

start hold is the flake that sits below the left hand

On Friday, we did 3 lines at the bookshelf boulder, residing high up near the summit. The bookshelf boulder faces south and sits just up from the boulder I tore my finger on. Jill is doing a variation start in an early attempt since going straight from the lower underside flake to the shelf seemed the easiest to do. The traverse is probably 3 or 4 points, and the mantle is maybe 2??? The crack behind is like 5.7 but cool. The traverse can have a direct, but I didn’t try it since the necessary hold is both grainy and potentially loose (truth is I didn’t test).

finishes here above the left boulder

more awkward then i thought

project traverse

I was planning on returning to attempt the send, but the finger cut prevented this. This shot is from the friday before as I worked out some of the beta. What I’m doing here is NOT what I worked out, but it was the only shot that really showed the traverse. This problem lies just east (or left from the camera showing the bookshelf boulder) and faces in to the formation, meaning you can’t see it from the ground.

~ by r. mulligan on 2010/03/26.

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