Timeline 01-2008: the Wishing Well and others

A while back, Mike and I happened upon a slot corridor with two incredible hiball lines. The only problem was the other wall of the corridor was maybe 1 foot away at places. One of the two lines goes, albeit with no margin for error. The left of two irregular crack lines has a middle section where the large holds are so close to the back wall, that you have to stay tight and close to the crack to avoid touching it. The left line looks sweet and is simply not possible to climb. Oh well. This post is a collection of maybe 3 or 4 visits to this area.

This line sits on the eastern buttress of the formation the Nicole Overhang resides at. From NO head east, and you’ll pass a mantel on the same boulder as Illicit Sweetie, before reaching The Wishing Well. If you turn around from NO, and head east you will pass two boulders whose left boulder right face (meaning on your left side) has a distinct slab face called Illicit Sweetie (page 161 of Roberts guide shows the face and left end with the distinct over head high overhang lip). That lip has two very poor sloping tip holds that one can jump to or reach if tall. From there go straight up. It’s not a stared climb but it’s quite challenging. I’d give it maybe v5 done on 1/24/10. Also, if you do The Hafling (which is on the boulder opposite IS), start right in the shallow alcove with a high left pinch and traverse into The Hafling for a unique alternative. Fun for all.

(update: a recent visit not in 2008) Having earlier worked Blood Diamond, Charlie visits the planet X area. Here he's learning either how to hate goofy problems or appreciate their balancy moves; a traverse into the Hafling. He repeated Planet X with great appreciation.

As you continue around to the eastern end of the formation, and with another formation behind you even further east (LHMFP, King Pin), in front of you lies a slab with a fair number of huecos on it. Just right of it you can see a slot corridor. Either crawl under or climb over and down to access The Wishing Well. At maybe 3 or 4, it’s quite worth the effort, or so we thought.

starting the crux of The Wishing Well

If you continue further around the formation, now heading back west along the northern part, you will come across a round boulder, with a northeastern face. It’s probably only a short distance from the eastern end, so you should come to it soon. Anyways, this line had been cleaned and chalked, but it was unknown if done. Ian and Bridgitte, of blackmountainbouldering.blogspot.com, met up with us one day and I showed him this line. He sent it pretty quick, called it 9 and that was that. Does anyone have knowledge who was working it or had done it prior? He climbed it on 1/12/08.

viewed from the top of the crux move.

the upper crux move.

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~ by r. mulligan on 2010/02/23.

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