set the line straight…

What happens when you put 3 robs on one problem? True diversity: 1 FA, 1 repeat, 1 dejected.

I was the one that broke the nice crimp on Perpetual Darkness. Yes, I admit it. Me. Basically, when the line was done, RG and RTM both sent it with confidence they’d do it with a bigger throw to the sloper, bypassing the crimp. I wasn’t doing well with the throw, actually nothing was working well. I theorized that the crimp might break, but that a crimp climber would definitely opt for it.

Update: RTM got the FA as per the guidebook. My memory, not good. RG confirmed he didn’t send it, thought I still remember his topout, and that he wouldn’t have done if he was just working it.

Fast forward to the semi-present, and Al L and I hike out to send. He sends with the crimp, and I get the move with the crimp (go figure). But as I go for the send, the crimp and I meet pad. Smack! Ugh. No more crimp; big moves back in style. Same as it ever was, and still v10, I assume.

Crimp broken on 4-20-2007 at just prior to 4:27 pm. Or so says the camera. Bummer because it’s a real neato move with the crimp. Maybe easier? Easily irrelevant.

darkness sans crimp


~ by r. mulligan on 2010/02/20.

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