Timeline 12-2008: in earshot of The Peanut

Around The Peanut were only a few lines. Today, there are just a few more. Above TP, lies an innocuous face with slashes horizontally pointing to the upper right. The center line looks possible for sure, but we did the right line. Sorry to let you down; the right line is not great, though really technical marred by the usual grain run. The holds cleaned  up well, but surrounding rock is still untrusty. It’s kinda like climbing on plastic with some sorta painted on gravel texture gone seriously wrong. Just stick with the clean stuff. 😉 The fall was fine, but maybe the deck was shallow, I don’t remember. Typical core-based sloper climbing. Not steep. Can’t remember the rating, maybe 5???As you walk in to TP, amongst the boulders that you meander through is one in particular, maybe on the left or even further left by itself, a west facing slab with a low, large discontinuous crack. It faces towards another boulder (from which I took the image) that’s the “downclimb.” You should see the problem in profile. The first picture is of JW sending it, or working it. Not sure. He thinks 6, maybe. I couldn’t say cause I didn’t do it, but the shoulder move to foot transition is real cool and sustained. Sweet rock. Short.

fun moves, minimal holds, slabby


the downclimb

Another high rock qaulity line lies due east following the contours of the hillside as you go farther away from the road (and the peanut). Just before you reach the right angle bend, are a small group of boulders (I know, just about everywhere!!!), with a squarish arete whose sweet left face faces north or to your left as you walk up to it. This is the Bushmill Boulder. In front of the slab, is another arete with a slab and head high horizontal crack running through it that faces you and south towards the first cut arete. There is a giant thorn bush between them. The left arete is cool, but you can exit and climb the very easy face. Regardless, it’s in the sun on a cold day. The arete to your right, or the taller one, is The Thief of Fire, until it gets an official name. The Bushmill boulder has on the backside two very sweet lines that face uphill. You can access those by walking to your left past TTF and up through the boulders.

There are no good shots of the climb, but it’s very sweet… especially the last move.

an early attempt but shows the upper part with a big ledge at the base of the white area.

the start holds. the upper shot shows the drop off in relation to Mike B's height.

The leftmost line on the backside, with the good landing, is called Smooth & Mellow, 4, and to it’s right is On The Rocks, 7. The first picture is Of S&M showing the position after the first move or two. The line trends to his left meeting the arete. OTR starts almost exactly the same but takes the left hand big and up as the image testifies to. OTR is really good. Really. Landing is fine as long as you can fill the wedge space and pad back to the top of the boulder. Top quality for the most part.

JW repeating Smooth & Mellow

the move right away from S&M. On The Rocks.

the successful, and FA, of the upper move. JW.

the unsuccessful throw

~ by r. mulligan on 2010/02/20.

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