Timeline 12-2008: from contrition comes perdition

On a sunny, beautiful day, with 8 inches of snow and a Park Service  superintendent experiencing high levels of paranoia, we finally get into the park in the early afternoon. We waited for hours staring at a clean road and a locked gate. We were told the boss “wants to be certain.” It was the certain part we weren’t sure of because by the time we got in the ENTIRE road system out to geology was clear, and all we wanted to do was make it to intersection rock. Update: I forgot to mention when this was. Sorry. This took place on December 21, 2008.

Please don’t smoke.

One photographer was so agitated that his voice started to rise and make a ranger uncomfortable. I interjected with a patient explanation that he has a point. Bad move. Especially while at her back… she turned to me and asserted  that I was “interfering in government (affairs),” that I show ID, stop talking, and calm down. I had become a terrorist, I thought. Her hand on her pistol and arm stretched out towards me, body angled with the intent to take me down, I continued to talk in a calm and clear voice. The photographer then stated I was calm and not interfering. She became more stressed. He was bummed, the photographer, because in 60 years he explained this chance had not arrived till now, and here, with sunrise and tons of snow, we couldn’t shoot it, or play in it. We, on the other hand, were going to show a brit the wonders of Josh only to show him American Authorite´. Matt B calmly went about taking nice images of snow, cactus and sun by the roadside. In the end, I asked if one of the rangers could drive up in their 4×4’s and go check to see what the road clearing private contractors were doing or that if we could get in up to the point where it’s not clear. I pointed out that next to the locked gate there sits an A-frame sign that says officially “road closed.” They could place it at the point that we couldn’t go further. That did it; two hours later, she, the ranger, and I were high fivin’ it as I passed her and the unlocked gate. Oh, I almost forgot about the contrition and perdition thing. Back a few years (or more) Kevin D put up Act of Contrition. A sweet arete the exudes patience and confident footwork (the grit-enabled brit, on the other hand, thought it fine and swell and such). It’s way good. To it’s left is another arete, caused by the boulder split. For unknown reason, it just looked ripe for climbing. Jon W, Matt B and I went at it, facing an unhealthy fall zone: too far to the right leaves you exposed to the constricting gap of stone, while centered on the arete leaves you with a 3 foot ledge. The best part was the top because there was just enough clean rock to enable a topout (down climb surely could be figured out afterwards). I sent it staying centered mantling the crux just on the right side thinking I’ll kick out into the gap between ledge and contrition, if I had the forethought. JW’s second of it followed the right face and avoiding the mantle. Scary. It maybe goes at one more point over contrition. The exit ended up being simple. Jump.

working back to the arete for the topout

the exit

considering the mantel …

Here’s another line but done a while back and included in the guidebook. I mention it because there’s a sit that could start from Bittersweet and join up at the start of this un-named face. MB, on the other hand, ran laps on it consistent with his reluctant admission that he thought it was maybe a 4 (I asked him. I rated it 7! talk about a possible over-rate.)

the unnamed face Semi-Sweet, v5

Josh in snow.

Update: This image is nothing special; nevertheless, it really captures our boredom with seeing such a rare sight as the northwest entrance to the park in snow, for hours.  Here Matt is resorting to handing out chips (… I took one). I added this when I added the Timeline to the title, which is something I’ve now added to all other posts to clarify approximately when the event(s) took place.

“It’s jolly nice here.” (he really didn’t say that)

~ by r. mulligan on 2010/02/20.

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