4 for 4, a pleasant afternoon

This last monday, after 4 days in DC for jr/nationals and getting back late sunday, I needed a fix. I was still wasted from motion sickness and four flights, loosing 4 pounds in as many days. Regardless, I wanted some grain.

Off Geology Tour road, we went straight to some potential new stuff I had eyed previously. Trudging with an extra Air pad on top of my Shogun, and Jill C with a second Air pad, we polished off 4 new lines, or so I might think. The first is a fine line marred by a boulder, yup that constant threat to nice lines here, sitting on it’s left. The face starts in a hueco with no bottom. After working to the left and a sloping ledge, the crux is avoiding touching the boulder with my left shoulder as I mantel then stand up. Once standing, I traversed to the left to high step up. I chose not to mantel cause the rock, though mostly nice has unreliable edges.

Oh, there is a hole below the mantel step move that we filled with a closed shogun and then topped with a closed air pad.

cool heel hook/mantel/high step

reaching from the bottomless hueco

Problem two was on the same boulder but around the right, or front, side. I did it in my approach shoes, but the slab above might be tricky for some. It’s maybe a v1??? the first problem is probably a 3 or 4. Truth is I kept eyeing it while doing the other problem and finally gave in and did it even though everything was packed up. I’m psyched I didn’t walk away.

reaching for the sweet intrusion

the evil SLAB!!!!! two or three smear moves and it's over even though it's a bit tall.

would have been a nice angle for the shot.

Problem 3 and 4 are on another boulder, one that looks like an old sailing frigate with the high stern. These problem may have been done because some of the dike blocks look knocked off. I really don’t know, and if anyone does know, please update me. Thanks. The right line goes at maybe 3 called Clinging From a Man O’War,  and the left at probably 6 or 7, is called A Setting 3% Waxing Crescent. I was greeted by that 3% waxing crescent just above the horizon as I stood on top. The boulder made me feel like I was on the deck of a ship or submarine. Pretty dang cool.

Well, that’s 4 for 4.

this line starts right hand at her chest and follows the right side pull feature.

it starts with the left hand next to the right hand pretty much matched at too sloping crimps and goes slightly left then up

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~ by r. mulligan on 2010/02/20.

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