Timeline 01-2009: The North Wind (formerly “yet there is more around Dead Man”)

Beyond the hallowed corridors of the Real Hidden Valley sits numerous other problems done, or waiting to be done. Robert has shown me a sweet face we have yet to return to to do. Ugh. Too many problems and not enough weekend time. Yet another reason all humans should have 3 day weekends, if not for any other other reason but to have a rest-day/seek-and-discover-day between climbing. And the main event to highlight is The North Wind.

This little gem sits atop a low and long formation just left as you enter the the hidden valley. The trail leads you either to the left and then doglegs north or right, east. The trail also can take you due west towards Run For Your Life, the classic trad face sitting prominently high in the distance. Unfortunately, you can’t see the face yet since it faces north. The boulder is obvious, but until you’ve been there it’s not. I recommend walking north along the trail and along the low formation looking  back until the problem appears. Access, though, is best reached from the south end of the formation by hiking as if you were going to RFYL. Once at the south end of the long and low formation, work your way up the gully just west of the formation. Once you can easily work up low angle slabs and around various boulders, you will arrive at the back/west side of the boulder.

Besides the commitment factor at the top, we spent most of our time working out the sequence. Most the holds are small, so it became a trial and error approach. The rock is mint. The LZ has a chest high boulder sitting right in the way. Fortunately, it offers access to the upper holds for inspection. The North Wind photos are labeled, but I can’t quite figure out how to add text between images, so I’m left with using captions until I get this dialed. Sorry for the cryptic approach. I’ll add more images of TNW soon.

the main event... The North Wind beta flashed by the Flea (Ben Polanco).

These next images are from the original ascents by Jon and I, with Jill and Mike climbing too. But first: what does this picture bring to mind? for me it’s chimney sweepers.

The Chimney Sweepers.

Jon W is actually sending on this try. Here, he is above the crux and about to reach the "ledges," then the topout.

the climb starts on the hand-foot match hold. he's about to do the second move.

this overview shot shows the fall line well.


~ by r. mulligan on 2010/02/18.

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