Timeline 03-2009: a hidden arete

The Brown Arete sits in a nice spot, shady by early afternoon, limited wind (if it’s not a westerly), and decently nice LZ. Probably it’s only negative is it’s rather ambiguous start.

Nestled amongst 3 giant boulders on the backside of the cyclops, the best access is from the road side of the formation right of the cyclops tunnel, working your way up and then through two of those giant boulders. On your right, the project traverse into The Brown is the first thing you’ll encounter. We deciphered the start by the key foot hold. On the right side of the face, low, is the requisite smear dish and on the left about stomach high is a continuous sidepull.

We started from two points that seemed better then the rest of the crack edge but not too high up. The obvious destination holds after the start is the edge and pinch maybe 3 feet up: edge on the right side, and pinchy sloper running along the left side parallel to the edge (JW holding that pinch in the first image). In the second image, my foot is just right of several white marks along the crack. We started there simply because any lower made getting on a bit ridiculous and any higher was not better, just closer to the next hold. There are two slightly better points at those white marks that made it our starting point.

The line finished on the left face. JW’s right hand is part of the traverse project starting maybe 10 or more feet right.

Jon W trying to keep the compression going...

I, on the other hand, opted for some simple crimping.

Still working the compression moves...

...but the crimps prevailed.


~ by r. mulligan on 2010/02/18.

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