Timeline 2007-2009: Stand and Deliver, et al.

Talk about a simple line. Climb the flake, stand on it, and reach the top. It’s rated 5.9 or something like that. For short peeps, you probably will have to jump. Yup! Jump!!!!! If you’re at Yard Arm, look right and you’ll see Stand and Deliver. It’s simply sweet. From YA, look left and behind you, there stands the ubiquitous Electro Gecko 2000. Why Ubiquitous you ask? Well, it’s pretty much the same stone almost everywhere in Jtree, but these holds, as I described in my About 2 are gecko holds: one finger per crystal. I see it as a concept climb. It’s not really a full fledged boulder problem, but just think if you could do 20 feet of gecko moves! Just think. I’m still looking. I found a line sorta like it, but until I or someone else gets it done, it won’t be listed here. 😉 It’s close to 20 feet, on perfect stone, vert, on sloping crimps up a shallow dihedral. Landing is good unless you pitch back at the top only to be met by a 90 degree corner in your back. Not good.

Back to SD, I sent it on 3-22 of last year. EG2000 was done in the summer of 07 about the time I did The Third Worst Boulder Problem in Joshua Tree. TTWBPJT is on the backside of Yard Arm. It’s just left of The Second Worst Boulder Problem…. It’s very grainy, but the moves are very good. Very Technical if you like little pebbles. 🙂 The line right of Stand and Deliver is undone as far as I know. We’ve tried it, but the top is super committing on holds I’m not sure will suffice well for climbing on. They should be good, if the holds on EG work.

Update: I almost forgot about Coffee and Cigarettes. Duh. It’s a Jarmusch line too, but it’s right around Stand and Deliver, et al. Then there is the forgotten named arete (or maybe I just didn’t name it) to slab line. These lines are hard to describe where they are, but I’ll try based on SD. The picture of SD is shot from very close to CC. Basically CC is a two headed line from a single start. It sits behind the boulders that drop down to Yard Arm. The line(s) face out to the desert floor, and the left exit is Coffee, the right exit is Cigarettes, v5, both. The picture of Jill C shows the fall line. It’s ok. Bring pads and a spotter. Assuming you found this, head west behind the big boulder and work your way around further and south. You can access the Forgotten Arete (nice name, eh, just thought of it) from the desert floor by going west from about 40 meters south of YA. Once you see it, it’s obvious. It’s a sweeping arete with a slab above it. The slab faces west away from the open desert.

reaching for the top on Stand and Deliver.

the top of TTWBPJT. Left foot not very good, but I use it to go to the top.

this is a line first done by Wills Young. It's just right of the down climb for False Up 20.

Electro Gecko 2000. Aron is trying to stop on the intermediate from the jump start.

the start is basically both hands lower, with the right hand low on the solid rail sidepull (at right heel in picture) and the left hand on a low slopey dish in real crappy rock at the base of the crack. The chalked sloper above JillC is the departure point for each line. Left to a finger slot, right to a jug.

upper slab of the Forgotten Arete, v0??? landing not so good at this point. its starts right of the picture edge on the arete.

just about to turn the arete to do the slab above... it starts to the right of the picture.

 

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~ by r. mulligan on 2010/02/17.

4 Responses to “Timeline 2007-2009: Stand and Deliver, et al.”

  1. Will’s arete problem by False Up 20. Remeber the photo were ypu guys looked liked you were saluting and we jokingly called it the Aryan Arete.

    • haha. I forgot about that. I agree, the photo looking down does trivialize a problem nearly 20 feet with a scary crux sequence near the top that is sustained all the way into the upper bowl; unfortunately, that is the only angle of that problem I think I have… Robert lists the problem as Big Up 20. I will try and find that photo…

  2. I know this is old but I cannot believe those lines went down seven years ago! It feels like yesterday! The picture of the Aryan Arete makes it look trivial. Stand and Deliver was so fun, such a good experience even if it’s 5.9

    • That they happened 7 years ago is scary! 🙂 That was such a stellar line I rarely see at other crags. I’d say grit can be pretty similar in nature: trade intrusion for pebble, grain for grit, throw in a ton of water and green stuff, and grit appears! 😉 At least josh has trees! Grit exists in a tree-less chlorophyll world. Aryan Arete? I’m blanking on this one…

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