Timeline 02 to 05-2009: Dead Man, et al.

For awhile, we routinely parked in the first space on the right as one enters the Real Hidden Valley parking area. From here, one can see due north the top of a mildly overhanging face facing to your right, though mostly in profile. The face is the top of the line called Broken Flowers. Dead Man it’s not. But Dead Man can be reached by walking or driving another 50 meters further into the parking area and while standing at the trash dump next to the smelly outhouse, looking north, you will see an obvious hanging crack that gently rolls off right to a slab. The boulder continues higher, but I mention this slab because that was our exit. Not that I didn’t want to do the direct finish, but the truth is after arriving at the shallow end of the crack, I bolted right. 😦 Done. Dead Man starts under the roof with one hand on an undercling styled pinch and the other at the corner of the roof/cutout. This cutout makes a nose feature that marks the technical pleasures of the line. We worked it starting in the evening and continued on till the am. I sent it by sun up, May 31, 2009, but we didn’t feel the effects until after we sat back down in the van and chilled. A long night for sure, especially for a 5 or 6. Jon W, the FAist of Kandahar, did the second shortly after.

Broken Flowers, stand v7 and sit v9, is a very fun problem. The fall zone is easily protected, but without a spotter, it’s way hairy. Behind you lurks the 90 degree corner of a boulder for the entire upper half. It’s probably 18 feet, then again it could be 16 feet. I didn’t measure it. Around the corner on the northish side of the boulder sits, well actually it hangs, Right Eye Shut, v6????. It’s one of my most favorite boulder problems and starts by stemming between another boulders’ corner and the one eye open. Once you get the jump, you can start the problem–up very small grains to a shallow dish then the top. Stellar!

The sit to Broken Flowers can easily be stussy’d. The whole crux is getting your ars off the pad and THEN trying to chuck for the pinch. Jon had done the move but botched the the next sequence; we’d both done the stand, me first. All he had to do was fire it again and go the distance. I was nowhere close to figuring it out. I kept working the mo but to no avail. He used raw

power, and that might have done him in. Once I got my weight over my left foot and made the pinch, I knew I couldn’t stop for anything (it felt HARD). I sent it on March 1, the same year as Dead Man. Right Eye Shut was done about the same time.

reaching the top on Broken Flowers

after the first move from the stand start. Broken Flowers

left start hold on Broken Flowers

the throw from the sit.

getting ready to try.

not going so well

the start of Dead Man

working the "nose"

cleaning off some grains on Dead Man

done cleaning...

just after the jump (it's not really a jump...)

a foot below the shallow dish. there's quite a few moves in those two feet of holds.

trying to find a hold above the left hand crystal thumb press

feeling for a nice set of crystals


~ by r. mulligan on 2010/02/17.

One Response to “Timeline 02 to 05-2009: Dead Man, et al.”

  1. what about the problem up the corridor we did, the one ben p. (flea) beta-flashed…

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