2 new FA’s in May, Yay!
As the sun continued to do its thing, the wind decided not to. Luckily, we decided to head to Lost Horse where several possible lines were all in the shade. We ate lunch, felt tired and sloth-like, so we decided to hike to the lines to see if they inspired us. One line did. The irony was it wasn’t the main thing we wanted to check out, but after rethinking how the line would go, courtesy of Jill, it became the main focus. Off we went to get the pads.
I flashed the FA before the sun went down and called it
Bridge Over Troubled Waters Once Upon a Line, v5 or 6. It felt more like a route as it’s 30 horizontal feet, and 18 vertical feet at the finish topout (estimated from the landing to top). The entire landing sucks except for the start. We started it at a rather obtuse place, but one that makes sense too. Any further left and it adds difficulty without making it harder, just more scary.
The start is identified by a thin seam (6 inches long) between hands, and a bump of rock over the horizontal crack. Starting further left risks falling with a sloping heel hook while hanging out over the drop off, all in order to just bump to the right hand pictured. I don’t think it increases the difficulty of the overall problem. Also, there’s a red ant nest that exits and enters through a hole just right of the right start hand. We found them when the sun went down because they come out at night, and if we put the headlamp on them they run back into their hole! They moved out and then down, so with one move, it’s easy to avoid them. Here are some images of me sending (jill did a good job shooting the ascent) and others of Jill and Alex:
This climb would be sweet to shoot correctly with properly placed strobes. Using optical slave mode only sucks because I have to place them in line-of-sight to the camera’s built in flash. Also, I have little room to properly place them according to the lay of the stones. Ideally, I would use the radio triggers (pocket wizards are the best, I think) and mount the strobes atop tripods (not light stands that require a flat ground). Often, just two triggers are all that’s needed, one on the camera and one on one strobe which would then be the one that triggers the other strobe(s) via optical. Ok, sorry for the tech photo crap… I spent 1o years shooting studio, location photography for advertising, pr and marketing with 4×5 and medium format back in the days of film. One day… I’ll actually take enough gear and shoot it correctly. One day. When Jill sends the Thunder Egg low start, I plan to shoot video with 3 lights. Stay tuned.
Here is one last problem I did that was right next to the parked car at the Rock Garden Valley parking turnout off Lost Horse road. It’s an arete that’s a bit grainy but cleaned up adequately. It’s fine grained stone and should clean up well. Just a few (crappy) shots of the Jacobin, v4 or 5. The problem can be seen from the car, maybe 30 meters or less??