2 new FA’s in May, Yay!

As the sun continued to do its thing, the wind decided not to. Luckily, we decided to head to Lost Horse where several possible lines were all in the shade. We ate lunch, felt tired and sloth-like, so we decided to hike to the lines to see if they inspired us. One line did. The irony was it wasn’t the main thing we wanted to check out, but after rethinking how the line would go, courtesy of Jill, it became the main focus. Off we went to get the pads.

an overview

an overview

I flashed the FA before the sun went down and called it Bridge Over Troubled Waters Once Upon a Line, v5 or 6. It felt more like a route as it’s 30 horizontal feet, and 18 vertical feet at the finish topout (estimated from the landing to top). The entire landing sucks except for the start. We started it at a rather obtuse place, but one that makes sense too. Any further left and it adds difficulty without making it harder, just more scary.

any further left and it drops off precariously.

any further left and it drops off precariously.

The start is identified by a thin seam (6 inches long) between hands, and a bump of rock over the horizontal crack. Starting further left risks falling with a sloping heel hook while hanging out over the drop off, all in order to just bump to the right hand pictured. I don’t think it increases the difficulty of the overall problem. Also, there’s a red ant nest that exits and enters through a hole just right of the right start hand. We found them when the sun went down because they come out at night, and if we put the headlamp on them they run back into their hole! They moved out and then down, so with one move, it’s easy to avoid them. Here are some images of me sending (jill did a good job shooting the ascent) and others of Jill and Alex:

first move of many

first move of many

start of first crux

start of first crux

second crux

second crux

the rest before the final slab... it's VERY good cause the feet are substantial

the rest before the final slab… it’s VERY good cause the feet are substantial

beginning to stand up on the next set of substantially large feet

beginning to stand up on the next set of substantially large feet

once I stand where my right hand is, it's pretty much over save for a few friction moves

once I stand where my right hand is, it’s pretty much over save for a few friction moves

working the first crux. Alex got all the moves except for the slab

working the first crux. Alex got all the moves except for the slab

jill worked different beta to overcome some long reaches and a far foot

jill worked different beta to overcome some long reaches and a far foot

lighting this beast was difficult because of so many smaller boulders close to the wall...

lighting this beast was difficult because of so many smaller boulders close to the wall…

the view through the viewfinder... ugh. cropping and avoiding capturing the strobes was guesswork... not to mention focus

the view through the viewfinder… ugh. cropping and avoiding capturing the strobes was guesswork… not to mention focus

I tend to go light with camera gear and here is a good example of wishing I brought my radio triggers. all strobes were in optical slave mode requiring line-of-sight

I tend to go light with camera gear and here is a good example of wishing I brought my radio triggers. all strobes were in optical slave mode requiring line-of-sight

This climb would be sweet to shoot correctly with properly placed strobes. Using optical slave mode only sucks because I have to place them in line-of-sight to the camera’s built in flash. Also, I have little room to properly place them according to the lay of the stones. Ideally, I would use the radio triggers (pocket wizards are the best, I think) and mount the strobes atop tripods (not light stands that require a flat ground). Often, just two triggers are all that’s needed, one on the camera and one on one strobe which would then be the one that triggers the other strobe(s) via optical. Ok, sorry for the tech photo crap… I spent 1o years shooting studio, location photography for advertising, pr and marketing with 4×5 and medium format back in the days of film. One day… I’ll actually take enough gear and shoot it correctly. One day. ;) When Jill sends the Thunder Egg low start, I plan to shoot video with 3 lights. Stay tuned.

Here is one last problem I did that was right next to the parked car at the Rock Garden Valley parking turnout off Lost Horse road. It’s an arete that’s a bit grainy but cleaned up adequately. It’s fine grained stone and should clean up well. Just a few (crappy) shots of the Jacobin, v4 or 5. The problem can be seen from the car, maybe 30 meters or less??

jill trying the lower moves on the Jacobin, v4 or 5

jill trying the lower moves on the Jacobin, v4 or 5

sending. there is a key crimp that's approximately level to my hips. this is what I used to turn the corner and mantel up

sending. there is a key crimp that’s approximately level to my hips. this is what I used to turn the corner and mantel up

enjoying a calm evening while I strobed them with a test

enjoying a calm evening while I strobed them with a test fire

~ by r.mulligan on 2013/05/19.

2 Responses to “2 new FA’s in May, Yay!”

  1. Once Upon a Line looks amazing! Sweet name too. I miss Josh so much it hurts. Oregon has no boulders, the routes are good but trivial and style/ethics are almost non-existent

    • wait till you see the front side of the boulder! you need to sneak away from your teachers and get your fix… it’s all night climbing now; we got home last night at 5am, driving back in rush hour traffic!

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